There is no shortage of unorthodox skincare trends. Whether it’s intentionally pricking the face with needles during microneedling, drawing blood for a PRP "vampire" facial, or zapping the skin with lasers… just about every aesthetic staple we have was once gawked at for its strangeness. Salmon DNA is no exception.
Known in the aesthetic world as PDRN, polydeoxyribonucleotide is an ingredient famed for its use of fish DNA—usually derived from salmon sperm. Its main function in skincare is its effects on the wound-healing response, encouraging cells to produce collagen while reducing inflammation.
While new and buzzworthy to Western beauty standards, PDRN has quietly evolved from a medical wound-healer into the absolute crown jewel of South Korean regenerative aesthetics. It sounds wild, we know. But before you write it off as just another internet trend, let’s unpack the actual science behind how this ingredient works.
Is PDRN Rooted in Science or Assumptions?
The answer to this question is not so straightforward. To simplify, we need to distinguish between PDRN’s two broad uses—pharmaceutically for wounds and cosmetically for aging.
PDRN gained traction in the medical world through diabetes research. A 2014 study on diabetic foot ulcers showed that injecting PDRN around the wounds actually sped up healing. The authors concluded that this intervention made for an effective tool in addition to existing wound care for diabetic patients.
Somewhere down the line, the cosmetic chemists got their hands on these results and began their own tests to determine if PDRN could also be used to address signs of aging. Interesting that PDRN is yet another treatment for diabetic use that has been co-opted for aesthetic benefits… Anyway, the effort was not in vain, and scientists did find some significant results.
If you look exclusively at Western beauty circles, you might think the cosmetic applications of PDRN haven’t been rigorously tested on live human participants. For the most part, it's been confined to cells in a petri dish or reported anecdotally. But look over at South Korea, and that assumption completely evaporates.
In Asian aesthetic medicine, salmon DNA is backed by years of actual human data. It is an approved, certified clinical treatment, most notably known as PN (Polynucleotides). Clinical studies in Seoul have tracked patients injected with PDRN achieving increases in skin elasticity, improvements in wrinkle reduction, and a physical thickening of the skin barrier.
So, we aren't just blindly hoping that what heals a wound can fix a wrinkle. The data on live skin is already there, but what does it really do for you?
The Rise of Regenerative Aesthetics
PDRN fits pretty snugly with the current wave of cosmetic treatments: regenerative aesthetics. The broad idea behind this trend is to use pre-existing biological processes to optimize and restore the body.
Some examples of regenerative treatments you might have heard of, and even tried, include Stem Cell Rejuvenation and the infamous PRP/PRF injections. These treatments have different flavours of biohacking, so to speak, but they both use biologically derived material—stem cells and platelets, respectively.
Skincare products have also followed suit by incorporating biomaterials into their formulations. Take our very own Stem Cell Serum, for instance, which includes a medley of rich botanical extracts aimed at skin renewal. Or even ( plated )’s INTENSE serum, which brings in the magic of exosomes. We like to think of those as little packages that cells send out to one another for communication, like a message in a bottle, to your fingertips.
PDRN falls under this same regenerative umbrella, using biology to impact biology. Although PDRN is often broadcast as the “salmon sperm facial,” polydeoxyribonucleotides, which are just DNA fragments, can come from anywhere. And while DNA fragments can be extracted from plants, marine DNA is the gold standard here because its structure is a near-perfect match to our own.
Similar to its counterparts, PDRN cosmetic treatments work to trigger a healing response by reducing inflammation, stimulating fibroblasts (collagen and elastin), enhancing microcirculation, and restoring the skin barrier. PDRN can be applied as an in-clinic treatment or added to your skincare at home.
Who is PDRN For? Do I Really Need it?
PDRN is just starting to gain traction here in North America, but overseas, it’s a K-beauty powerhouse used topically and as a clinical injectable to strengthen the skin and create the “base” for the coveted glass skin look. Right now, the most accessible way for Canadians to experience it is through targeted treatment masks and over-the-counter skincare products.
That being said, there aren’t really limits on who can ‘get’ PDRN because, for the most part, it’s just "another" skincare ingredient. The real question is whether or not PDRN-containing products are even worth it for you.
As a skin booster, PDRN injections don’t effectively replace the injectables we do have on the market. Filler, for example, lasts much longer and has instant effects on the skin, whereas PDRN treatments might take time to work on the cells and need to be repeated every 1–2 months.
As far as topical application of PDRN in skincare, it doesn’t seem to be a replacement for active ingredients that have much more scientific backing, like retinoids. You can certainly add it to your rotation. In fact, many people have reported that PDRN-containing products are very moisturizing… But you might already have a moisturizer that gets the job done.
Ultimately, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it! Of course, innovation in the cosmetic industry is necessary and exciting, but some things get hyped up before they’ve really had the chance to earn their spot in your skincare cabinet. As always, maintain curiosity but remain skeptical.